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Sunday, July 28, 2024

Mountains

The other day we went for a drive in the mountains. We passed a sign that said 2900 feet. I thought of Mt. Everest, on the other side of the earth, which is 29,000 feet in elevation. We wouldn't be driving there.

Just because it's ten times taller doesn't mean it's better. We don't have a winner and a loser. Each has their own wonderful beauty. The only losers in this story are the eyes that can't see the beauty that's all around us.

Sunday, April 28, 2024

Right of Way 202

 If you're a small vehicle and you want to cross the main flow of traffic, you pretty much have to wait until there's a clear spot to go. The only other option is to get a bunch of other small vehicles who are going the same direction, the more the better. Then you all slowly but surely inch forward into the cross traffic, together. Sooner or later one of the big vehicles is going to give way, then the others going that way have to stop, then you can all cross.

Thursday, September 1, 2022

Playing

On the drive home, we passed an empty lot where some medium-sized boys were playing with a football (Nerf). It was really nice to see them enjoying being outside, being active, figuring things out among themselves. 

It reminded me of the neighborhood kids getting together to play chase when I was a kid. If they had had a ball of some kind that really would have been an amazing game, but they didn't so they did variations. Sometimes we were allowed to climb trees to get away. Sometimes we had to hop on one foot. 

Sometimes the boys played marbles. Girls were definitely NOT allowed to play marbles - maybe because it generally invovled wagering, in which you could lose your marbles. If you didn't have marbles, you would have to play with a folded up cigarette carton some adult had discarded.

The girls played Five-stones. It took a while for me to figure it out, because each successive round is different than the one before. First round, you throw your five stones on a smooth, flat surface. Clean flagstones on the front porch work best. Then you make a goal by arching your fingers against the flagstone. You throw one small stone up in the air. While it's in the air, you slide one of the other four stones through the goal, and catch the one you threw before it lands. You have to get each of the four stones through the goal without touching any of the others. Second round, two go through the goal with each toss. Third round, three and one. Then, or course, all four at once. Rounds five through eight, your opponent makes a square on the playing floor with both hands. Then you have to actually pick up the correct number of stones and deposit them into the square before catching your in-the-air stone.

If you touch your other stones, if your throwing stone lands before you finish your move, or if you fail to move the right number, you forfeit your turn and someone else plays. If you have to repeat a round while your playmate gets to move to the next, obviously she has more skill. Skill is needed to pick the right sized and shaped stones for your five. You also need skill while casting out the five, depending on which level you're on, and picking the correct stone out of the five to throw. Of course, you need judgment when throwing your stone too. If you throw it too high, it comes down too fast to catch, and if you don't throw it high enough you don't have time to finish your move. There are other levels, but I never played them because I didn't have enough experience.

You can play by yourself, but it's much better in tournament, the girl who can get through all rounds first being declared the winner.

Right of Way

It's the antique car show in Frostburg this weekend, and a lot of fancy cars are driving by with people having fun in them. And I just heard a horn beep.

In India, many different kinds of horns punctuate every trip to anywhere. On the open road, between cities, the most common are lorry horns, loud shrill blasts that rival the roaring of the engines. They tell villagers they're approaching, warn animals and small children off the road. Lorries also use their horns at curves in the road, of which there are many in the mountains, to tell other drivers to find a spot to get out of the way. At night, you're supposed to dip your lights, but more likely you'll get a horn blared instead. The lorries get the right of way over everyone else, and their horns say so.

In the old days, the lorries all had air horns, with the rubber air bulb within easy reach of the driver's hand so he could give a quick honk-a whenever he needed to. Nowadays, they're mostly electric.

The long distance busses blast their horns in the same way, but many busses have unique musical sequences, very loud. If you're riding the bus you need to get to know your bus horn, because when the driver finishes his lunch you need to be back in your seat when he blows the horn, or have a very good advocate, so you won't be waiting for the next bus. If a bus meets a lorry at a curve, the bus has to move out of the way.

As you get closer to the city, of course the volume increases, by number and by frequency. Now you can hear, in order of right of way: large government and VIP vehicles whose sophistocated single-tone horns let foot traffic know to pay attention; city busses don't have fancy horns as often, but drivers are never afraid to hold the note for as long as it takes to get the right passengers for the trip; taxis use smart, multiple beeps to communicate the importance of their trip; minibusses used for mass transit get a slightly lower rank and often have a caller, the driver's apprentice, who adds his voice to the long drawn-out horn tone to announce routes and departures; then come any number of private cars -- each driver develops his own rhythm, putt-putts and motorcycles whose high squeaky horns give them away, cycle rickshaws and bicycles who use the same metalic ringer to establish their spot on the road. Horse drawn tongas, ox- and camel- carts and coolie-drawn cargo carts get last place, using the drivers' sticks to play the spokes on the wheels as they roll.

It all works amazingly well, if you follow the system.

Monday, June 20, 2022

Smells Like Yak

There's a funny sweet smell in the van, especially when we turn on the heater, in winter. We know that smell; it's antifreeze. We've had leaks before. When we finally have a chance to get it looked at, it turns out there's a pernicious leak into the inside of the van, right under the driver's feet. Don the Mechanic patches it up for us.

Next time I ride in the van, it doesn't smell like antifreeze anymore. It smells a bit like mechanic. But it's a little bit different. I sniff again. "It smells like yak," I say. 

My husband laughs, "You are the only person I know who would actually know what yak smells like!"

Once when I was pretty little -- little enough so I can just barely remember it -- my family went on a trek to Jomsom. I was so little they had hired a coolie just to carry me, in a basket on his back. One day we came to a wide-open, barren plain, high in the mountains, that was strewn with round black rocks. I remember my coolie put my basket down and cracked a rock open for me, and inside was a fossil of a curled up sea creature. Even at that young age, I was pretty impressed. We were high in the Himalaya in a dry plateau! I still have that fossil somewhere.

In my memory, I walked across the high plain without my coolie. The wind was so strong my mom and I leaned into it steeply while we walked. On the far side there was an old plane wreck, perched at an odd angle, empty windows leering hauntingly, just begging to be explored.

As we climbed the gentle slope out of that flat valley, we passed a yak train loaded with wares to trade or sell in far away places. The yak drivers asked, "Kahaa jaane ho?" Where are you going? It's the polite greeting on a trail in the Himalaya. I remember being given some cubes of yak cheese to suck on. The locals ate the cheese dry and hard, so that they could carry it with them for days and savor the flavors and nutrition.

That night, in my memory, we stopped at a village home to spend the night. Our family sat in the dark kitchen around the cozy cooking fire with the family whose home it was, while our coolies chatted in the shadowy corners. Behind them, the family's yaks munched solemnly and peacefully near the manger.

I don't know why the van smelled like that. We don't have to worry about antifreeze anymore though, because now we drive all-electric.

Tuesday, September 28, 2021

The Stream

I observe the stream, sourced from a clear mountain spring. It's on a journey to something great, something global. On its journey it passes over and through meadows and boulders and pebbles and forges its course with a single purpose. Its energy is closer, though, determined to find the best way forward, encouraged by gravity and elevation. It instinctively knows where it's going, but it experiences here and now to the fullest.

The stream follows channels previous waters have formed, and also branches out, adapting to new obstacles and circumstances. On its journey the stream spreads (mostly) life and joy, breezes and melodies - sometimes peaceful, sometimes excited, sometimes ambitious - but sometimes an overabundance of resources leads to flooding, destruction and ultimately new courses being carved out for the future. 

As it flows, it joins other streams and changes its character as they share a purpose and offer their origins and become a new branch - then join other tributaries until they all together become a mighty river, much different than the bouncing, flouncing mountain stream. When did they cease to be tributaries? And all the while, the heart is still of a mountain stream singing to the trees melody and harmony together.

Sunday, August 22, 2021

Audio in - Audio out - Video (Pan/Tilt/Zoom?)

God made us to live in community, and living in community means communicating. Many people send and receive messages by using their voices and ears and brains. That's not to mention the emotional messages that go back and forth between communicators: how you're feeling today, past experience, if you're in pain or not, reading body language and tone of voice.

Is it any wonder that providing a meaningful, genuine worship experience electronically is a challenge? What's the audio source? Who needs to receive it? How? What's the video source? What's the best angle? How do  you include people who are worshiping online and people in the building? And what if the answers to those questions are different than last week's answers?

Sunday, May 30, 2021

The Chorus of the Trees

The cicadas are coming out of hiding, getting ready to start their next 17-year life cycle. In the hot days of early summer, they serenade us with their intense mating call. I guess they'll be joined by more and more of their brothers in the coming weeks.
The tree peepers have already been in song, ever since the days and evenings first got warm. Some friends have an on-going discussion if they're frogs or bugs, then another friend called them peepers, and of course that's what they are. I refuse to Google it! (I did Google the "periodical cicadas".)
For me, it's the chorus of the world around us. In the foothills of the Himalayas in the early summer, the cicadas sing in the treetops in anticipation of monsoon's imminent arrival. The volume crescendos till the first drops of rain, then they are quiet until next summer.
We all have parts in the song. We people just sing along the harmony. Together we make a beautiful symphony.

Saturday, January 30, 2021

Kismis for Christmas

It’s an old story whose flavor gets better with the telling, just as fruitcake improves with age.

In 1968 in Nepal, nobody knew it was Christmas time except the few of us foreigners. The big holiday celebrated here is Desai, back in October, with lights on rooftops and windows, huge tall swings hung from branches, hand-made-foot-operated Ferris wheels, dancing and exchanging gifts of festival foods - slightly sweet sel-roti and crunchy, smoky flavored chewra.

My sister and brother had arrived in early December, home from their first semester in boarding school. Judy went to explore the bazaar with Mom. In our dusty, provincial market, a woman selling foodstuffs and various sundries saw them shopping and called out that she had the most wonderful treasure from far away. The vendor's enthusiasm for her stash of rock-hard, pale, dirty-looking dried dates sparked an idea in my sister's head. She bargained for the gems, then pulled out the cookbook GramB had bequeathed her when she left for the other side of the world.

After that first Christmas fruitcake (featuring mainly, you guessed it, dates), a tradition grew. Starting in August when she first got back to boarding school in India, my sister would portion out her monthly pocket money (she had to buy her own shampoo and toothpaste, too) and hunt for ingredients. She bought black and golden raisins (called kismis), cashews, sometimes even almonds, goodies from Kashmir and further west - food of Persian and Moghul kings and queens -  and stored them safely in her trunk until Going Down Day. 

Going home was days of travel by train, rickshaw, bus, or jeep, and walking. At home, she learned where to go in our little bazaar for ghur, fresh-milled flour, and walnuts. What is ghur called in English? There really isn't a translation - it's partway along the process of sugar cane juice becoming sugar. Think of not-quite "jaggery". We didn't have brown sugar in the village in those days, so she improvised. Over the years she researched and shared recipes to make candied orange peel and pickled watermelon rind to add to the recipe. 

From the kismis we picked out stems, ant and bee bodies, rocks, and clay clods that got swept up off the clean, sun-soaked roof top in Kashmir where those grapes became raisins. I remember helping to pick through the raisins with my little kid fingers. The bigger people all helped crack thick-shelled walnuts and almonds to get the meats out, working around the dining table by lamplight after dinner. I didn't even like fruitcake at the time, but I loved helping my big sister clean the raisins and stir the ghur on the top of the kerosene-gas stove. There were sticks of straw and other sweet-loving creatures to pick out of that too, as I stirred.

We put up a homemade Swedish Christmas tree with three branches - we now affectionately refer to it as the Charlie Brown tree. There were handmade decorations, and our gifts were simple. That first year in Pokhara, we had some gifts that arrived in packages from the States in various states of wholeness, but in later years we made gifts for each other: stitched shirts, painted pictures, handmade wooden boxes, warm cable-knit sweaters. They were made with love and care because we couldn't always get what you thought you needed in Pokhara in those days. We usually took down a puzzle from the shelf in the attic and kept it on the table for everyone to work on.

From a handful of hard, dry dates discovered in the Pokhara bazaar in 1968, Judy's gift grew to making and giving away four, then six, then more fruitcakes at Christmastime. After she graduated from high school and settled back in the States for college (where she bought all the ingredients at the supermarket), she mailed 20-some fruitcakes in time for Christmas to family and other loved ones. Many years later she passed on the tradition to my daughter Clara, where the time-tested recipe has morphed into a yummy gluten-free version as Grampa Bob eats GF ("Grampa Friendly"). It still gets sent around the country to people we love, in time for the holidays -- even in 2020 with COVID mail!

Sunday, September 20, 2020

Sun Shining Through

 When the light hits it just right, you can see how it's starting to clear. It took a while to see it. 

First thing in the morning, how do we call the day? I choose to call it good! It may be still dark right now, but I still call it good.


Saturday, May 23, 2020

Fog and Isolation: Pandemic

I woke up to a thick, enveloping fog this morning, when my body wouldn't let me stay in bed any longer. My weather app advised me of dense fog - reduced visibility - travel with caution. But I don't have to go out right now. There is sun out there, beyond the fog, and its beginning to blaze through. It's exhilarating, knowing there's a beautiful world out there that I can't see right now. What's around me is beautiful and exciting, though. I can't resist walking in it, breathing it, looking all around. Stella heard me walking on the gravel and came to accompany me.
Peter in the Bible wrote 2000 years ago, but it seems appropriate to today (I Peter 5:9), "[Be] steadfast in your faith, for you know that your brothers and sisters in all the world are undergoing the same kind of suffering." Read the next verse, too.

Wednesday, October 2, 2019

Home

I spent third grade in a public school in southern California (how much is two dimes and a nickel?) in '72-73. We stayed at my Mom's parents', a half mile or so down the track from the ranch house. My parents were on "home leave" visiting a lot of churches to build the relationships that kept them in mission in Nepal. My sister was in her first year of college, and my brother was in high school in town in 11th grade. Even as a child, I sensed my mom worrying about him getting drafted. But the war in Vietnam ended before he came of age.
When I got off the school bus, I went and hung out with Grandma. She always had cool snacks for me (ice cream sandwiches), and we watched shows together: Jeannie, The Brady Bunch, and if we were daring, Love Boat. She also taught me to knit and sew (mostly doll clothes), and told me to go check out the polly-wogs in the pond. I even got to feed an orphaned calf.
I guess my maternal grandparents were pretty involved in our lives before we went to the mission field, but I couldn't remember that, so this year gave me a memory, a "home" in the States. From what I can discern as an adult, my grandparents were peeved that my dad would up and take their daughter and grandchildren across the world, so this was a workable attempt to lessen that pain. Later, I would call 246 W. 14th St. in Chico, CA "home", but Tar Springs Ranch outside Arroyo Grande was my first.
Of course, for me, the house on poo corner in Lamachaur, Pokhara, Nepal was really home. That's a story for another day!

Thursday, August 29, 2019

Time Travel

You can travel far on a single scent.
The fresh smell of rain can take me in a moment to monsoon in the Himalayas, no matter where I'm standing. I can feel the heat change to cool on my skin. I can hear the cicadas stop their chorus for the shower. I can see the clouds drifting in the open window. I can smell moss growing on the trees. I can taste pure clean on my tongue.
And when it's not monsoon, or I'm in a place that doesn't get monsoon, I just breathe in and breathe out and remember...

Saturday, July 6, 2019

Clouds in the Mountains

Living layers of cumulonimbus clouds pile up against the Allegheny Mountains of Western Maryland, as in the Himalayas during monsoon, shades of white and gray and black, light and fluffy, interacting with each other. This afternoon they may bring rain, or tomorrow.

Monday, July 1, 2019

Moving: Pastor's Spouse

Six months ago. My husband and I are engaged in conversations with a church call committee. Daniel had already spoken with his synod support team and they recommended we travel to the area to see if we liked it. We go, love it, and over the next couple of months meet with the call committee several times. We meet with the church council. Then we meet with the congregation. Somehow I ended up at all of those meetings; what other job does the spouse attend the interview?
Four months ago. My husband is called to a new church, in a new state. This is the first time we will be moving within the same synod, and also the first time our move will not be across an ocean. We start packing, list the house for sale, schedule the last appointments and last book discussions. Our son starts looking for a new place to live.
Three months ago. Today's my last day on the job I've held for eight years. That's the longest I've ever been at the same job (other than parenting).
Two months ago. I am in Ecuador with my family, enjoying some rest and relaxation before the next call. As soon as we get back, the moving committee from the church we're moving to shows up with a big truck and hauls our stuff away. How did we accumulate so much stuff? Isn't there anything more we can get rid of / not move?
About a week ago. I notice that I am becoming familiar with our new home: I turn the right way on Winchester Road for the first time. One day soon, I will find the right work to do in a new place. Meanwhile, Daniel's been at his new job for a month and a half.
It's a good move. The Spirit of God has guided it from the beginning, from the first time Daniel began to feel the Word of God in his voice has been spoken and heard at the congregation where we have been for eight years. The congregation we're leaving needs to hear a new voice. It is clear that the congregation we're moving to needs to hear Daniel's voice for a while.
Were we in the wrong place before? No. We needed each other. Are we in the right place now? For now. Leaving is not easy. Starting over is not simple. I know there are books to help pastors gracefully leave a congregation. They have workshops about what pastor's need to do to prepare, and to prepare congregations for transition. Are there books for pastors' spouses? I'm looking.

Thursday, January 24, 2019

A "Western" Disease
Turns out there's a natural medicine center in my neighborhood. Insurance doesn't pay for it, but the fee for a consult is less than my co-pay for the specialist. Of course, I'm not allowed to stop seeing a specialist, so the natural medicine acts as a "supplement", but that works for me.
Turns out Dr. Tillitson (PhD in medical anthropology) studied Ayurvedic Medicine in Kathmandu in the 70's under Dr. Mana Bajracharya... So he's going to work on getting the inflammation down, having me lose weight to lessen the pressure on my joints, attacking any stealth infection in my gut that could be activating my immune system.
In the spring, just before the growing season started, my knees hurt so much I could hardly walk. I got home from work and slept for an hour before I could think about doing anything else. After a couple months of dealing, finally going to my primary care provider, who sent me for a round of lab tests (result: "you have something autoimmune going on"), and then sent me to a specialist who took more lab tests, "they" decided I have lupus. ...Only to be told, after the diagnosis, that if I had any more questions I should look it up on the internet. And take these meds.
I spent several weeks too busy and fatigued to look at anything. After a short course of steroids, I started looking up lupus on the reputable medical websites, who called lupus "a Western disease" with pages and pages of symptoms and long term degeneration and possible treatments for the symptoms, cautioning me not to exercise and not to go in the sun. Then I tried looking up blogs and videos from people dealing with lupus, which worked to get me in a deep, hopeless depression. Most gave strategies, recipes, highs and lows: overcoming. Not depressing in themselves, but the hardest part for me was feeling guilty for getting a "Western" disease.
What do people do with pain and fatigue in other places? I know they get these symptoms. When I was a kid growing up in Nepal, my mom--a librarian, with antiseptic ointment, bandages and aspirin in a locked cabinet--was the first aid provider for our whole village. When our neighbor got gored in her ribs by the plowing bull, my mother was the first person they called. My dad ended up  running to get the mission Land Rover and driving our neighbor and her husband to the hospital for stitches. It would have been an hour's walk. Up the street one of the aunties didn't get her hand out from the rice huller in time and the heavy dhan kuttne beam crushed her hand, and ground her glass bangles into her wrist. That was also a hospital run after my mom stopped the flow of blood. She dealt with a lot of cuts, boils, other pains, but being so young I didn't realize she was probably doing counseling as well. 
So how do I get expensive, ongoing treatment for pain, when people in other places are still dying from septic sores? My counselor tells me that it's only the people who have bad problems who post on the internet. The ones who are managing don't talk about it online. My faith sister, a nurse, tells me, "You've got lupus; lupus doesn't have you." My walking partner texts, "Shall we try a gentle walk this week?" My ayurvedic doctor monitors my progress. I haven't found a new specialist yet, and my primary care retired last month. I handle my fatigue by dreaming of getting a smaller house, and letting my son cook dinner most nights and my husband wash dishes. Growing season is right around the corner, but this year I can walk. Now I can stand to teach my class, and I can kneel at the communion rail. I don't know how long that will last, or what other manifestations I will experience, but I'm on the way, and I've got people walking with me.

Wednesday, September 26, 2018

Back on the Crowded Train

The train was crowded, so crowded that I thought it was just a mass of people with no vehicle. It was overwhelming. But I had to go, I had to make the trip. I perched on the edge of the bench, ducking under the middle berth, where the reserved traveler was still sleeping. Soon the others travelers would wake, go to the common rest room to wash their faces, brush their teeth, and use the toilet, share a cup of tea, or change into their traditional dress to get off at their destinations. It is here that I learn to tie my hair up in a knot so it doesn't fall down. I was here for the duration, my destination was the end of the line, at the foot of the Himalaya where the bus will take me up the hill.
In my mind I traveled back in time to another train, another trip, other company. It was the end of a national rail strike and the trains were crammed with people and animals making up for lost time. In those days, the animals could still travel in the compartment with their people. I can still feel Ko Man Singh's strong hands lifting me onto the train among the crowds.
I looked down the aisle to the end of the compartment. No goats, no chickens. People wear business suits, carry computers and brief cases. A young man jammed in under another sleeping berth catches my eye. What story is he carrying, I wonder?
I never rode the commuter train in Mumbai, but I guess people who do develop a strategy that works.
I have only ridden the crowded train in NYC a few times, and I've ridden the commuter in Beijing, two of the largest cities in the world. I've also ridden Amtrak's Empire Builder from the Midwest, through Northern Montana and the Columbia River Valley to the West Coast, and the Coast Starlight down the outer edge of California. My experiences on Indian trains made me want to do that trip, and I'm glad I did. It's different in many ways, but you get the same rhythmic rocking of your miles. Looking forward to the next trip, someday.

Sunday, February 5, 2017

Trekking

Kaan jaane ho? is the polite greeting when you meet someone on the trail in the Himalayas in Nepal. On the Pacific Crest Trail in the Russian Wilderness in California going south (Google it, if you don't know where that is) you say, "'you going through?" Then you might get a smile, and a quick answer before they streak off northward. "Don't forget to enjoy the view!"
Kaan jaane ho? Where are you going? It's an invitation to tell where you're going, where you came from, what in the world a white person like you is doing here in the mountains. It's a chance to find out what village they're from, and why they're going to another one, or why they're going to the city. When I was growing up we were often not on the trekking thoroughfares. We didn't carry big packs. We didn't have coolies and mules. Often we were going to visit Aunty Mary in Paime, or Dr Hale in Amp Pipal, or Ganesh Bahadur in Lamjung.
There is always a view. The PCT had some amazing ones. What I missed on the PCT was not having a tea shop and a chautara to rest under, and not being able to look forward to an evening meal shared with the local... cowherd and his family, mayor, midwife, merchant, school teacher, and other travelers sharing the same stop.
It was a great trek, though.
Russian Wilderness July 2016
The mountains in Ecuador are impressive in another way. Maybe that's why Ecuador feels natural to me. Last month we drove through: no trekking. This is my favorite.
Antisana

Wednesday, September 21, 2016

Bio Poem

Kathy
Caring, curious, thoughtful, steady
Sister of Judy, David, Arjun, and daju-bhai, didi-baini
Lover of learning, growing, sitting around the table at dinner
Who feels hopeful, open to new ideas, forgetful
Who needs sleep, positive reinforcement, creativity
Who fears sitting still, running out of energy, not seeing beauty
Who would like to take a vacation, get a new computer, make a difference
Resident of Rothwell Dr
Lee Buckner
Swanson

Wednesday, July 27, 2016

Curvy-Urksy

My mom tells me my brother and sister coined the term. It's the descriptor for a road that curves through the mountains on the way to visit Grandma and Grandpa, or to go on a trek in the National Park, or later, to go to a barn raising at the research farm where my brother lived.
It also describes the tiny stretch of S Park Dr in Wilmington, along Brandywine park. The sign says no pedestrians, no parking, no stopping, but just that half mile drive on my way between work sites was enough to transport me to other curvy-urksy roads.
The road up the hill from Dehra Dun where the railroad ends, to Mussoorie where my school was, has always been an adventure. It's the part of the long road that stops the hearts of new staff and students. As you're suffering the car sickness and vertigo you imagine being stuck up on the mountain for the rest of your contract because it's too hard to get down! The road is much improved now, and you're not as likely to round a corner and see most of the road in the valley below because of a landslide. You're more likely to come upon a shack with tin sides that sells Maasti chips and hot tea.
But it's still an adventure; one that I love. I love the way the clouds float in and out the windows in the monsoon. I love the silly axioms the road crew posted on the roadside to animate sleepy drivers. I love the hot pakora half-way up. I love sharing the road with loud lorries, wandering cows, leaping monkeys, heavily loaded hill people, looking for the elusive leopard.
Curvy-urksy will always mean "worth the trip" to me.